Glass, tint
& wraps —
elevated.

If the damage is small, away from the edge, and outside your line of sight, a repair is usually the right call — it is faster, cheaper, and keeps your factory glass and factory seal. Once a crack starts running, or it sits right in your view, replacement is the honest answer. Use the checker above and it will tell you which one you are probably dealing with.

Usually, yes. Glass claims typically fall under comprehensive coverage, and in a lot of states a repair costs you nothing out of pocket because carriers would rather pay for a chip than a whole windshield later. Bring us your policy info and we will work the claim so you are not the one on hold.

If your vehicle has lane-keep assist, adaptive cruise or automatic emergency braking, there is a camera mounted behind the windshield. Move that glass and the camera aim changes. Recalibration re-teaches it where the road is. Skipping it on a car that needs it means those safety systems can misjudge distance — so we check and tell you up front.

Three to five days. The adhesive needs time to cure, and rolling a window down early is the fastest way to peel a fresh edge. You will also see haze or small water pockets during that window — normal, and it clears on its own as the moisture evaporates.

In Idaho: 35% on the front doors and back glass, 20% on the rear doors, and nothing below the AS-1 line on the windshield (a strip across the top is fine). There is a medical exemption with a doctor's note. The thing that trips people up: your factory glass already blocks light, so a 35% film measures darker than 35% once it is on the car. Driving in another state? Tell us and we will check its limits before we start.

Not with what we install. Old metallic films could block signals — that is where the reputation comes from. Carbon and ceramic are non-metallic, so radio, GPS and key fobs are unaffected. Defroster lines are fine too, as long as whoever installs it knows how to work around them.

Yes. Film that has gone purple or started bubbling comes off, the adhesive gets cleaned off the glass completely, then we tint fresh. Removal is real labor — especially on back glass with defroster lines — so it is quoted separately. Mention it and we will include it.

PPF is clear and it is about protection — a thick, self-healing film that takes rock chips and scratches so your paint does not. A wrap is about looks: colored vinyl that changes what the vehicle is. Plenty of people do both, PPF on the front end and wrap over the rest.

Not on factory paint in good condition — that is the whole point, and it comes off years later without taking paint with it. The exception is resprayed or repaired panels: aftermarket paint that has not fully cured, or that was not prepped well, can lift. If your vehicle has had bodywork, tell us and we will test a small area first.

Depends on the film and how the vehicle lives. Garage-kept and hand-washed, a quality wrap holds up for years. Parked outside in full sun all day, expect less — UV is what kills vinyl. Horizontal panels like the hood and roof always go first.

Both. Same films, different problem — cutting glare on a west-facing living room, dropping the cooling bill on a storefront, adding privacy to an office, or replacing a broken pane or a foggy failed seal. Send photos and rough measurements and we will get you a number.

No, and any shop that tells you otherwise is selling you something. Reflective privacy film works by being brighter on one side than the other. During the day it is brighter outside, so people cannot see in. After dark with your lights on, that reverses — and so does the film. If you need night privacy, you need blinds or a frosted decorative film.